Friday, March 05, 2010

America the Interesting

I was in a health food store the other day, helping my favorite vegan pick up a few meatless, non-dairy, cruelty-free foods, when I realized that America is actually becoming more interesting. Health food stores used to seem exotic and wacky to a good number of us heartland types. Kansas City native Calvin Trillin couldn’t visit a health food shop without ranting about the bizarre products he swore they sold there, things like “soy waste, granola dust, and pure extract of balsa wood.” “You know very well there’s no such thing as soy waste,” his wife Alice would say, but he’d rant on about the employees at the store. “If bumblebee leavings and stump paste are so good for you,” he would say, “why can’t any of these guys grow full beards?” But on our recent visit to the health food store I couldn’t find a single jar of stump paste or even one twisty-tied baggie of granola dust. Apart from a couple of the mineral supplements, I recognized pretty much everything I saw there. In the space of only a couple of decades, we have become accustomed to a diet that is much more diverse and interesting.

And even the neighborhood food shops aren’t as parochial as they used to be. Sixteen years ago, on my first evening as a resident of Michiana, I went to the nearest grocery store to pick up something for dinner. Someone at home had an unsettled tummy, so I asked the clerk to point out a few of the less spicy foods there in the deli case. “Oh, no, sir,” she said, “we hardly ever put spices in anything we make.” But now that same store has torn out the giant Aisle 1 racks of Technicolor jello salads and installed a fifteen-foot cooler of imported cheeses. Remember Monty Python’s Cheese shop skit, where John Cleese asks for several dozen different cheeses, and one after another the shopkeeper informs him that they are out of stock? Well, we can finally purchase them all right here in Michiana.

You gather from the Monty Python skit that in 1970 an English family might be acquainted with a pretty nice variety of regional and even some foreign cheeses. But in 1970 the average American household might have had only cheddar and Swiss and what we jokingly called at our house back then, “some really good Velveeta.” Calvin Trillin, of course, is a satirist, and his 1980 essay about health food shops spoofed a quirky fringe of folks out there inventing a new food and health tradition. But he was also spoofing himself and a broad swathe of Americans who could get a little jumpy and critical around any unfamiliar bit of culture, even if it tasted good. In spite of intervening wars and Patriot Acts and acts of terror, we’re getting better at that too. No longer does a Chinese restaurant supply the most exotic food a Midwestern child is likely to eat growing up. Our kids have classmates with names I never heard of when I was in school; our stores and restaurants are more varied. It’s not unusual to be a vegetarian or to know a vegan. I still love the slightly bitter tang and crunch at the pale heart of a head of iceberg lettuce, but face it – America is a more interesting and colorful place now. I’d be happy to have a plate of Boiled and salted bright green edamame anytime.

Broadcast by Ken Smith on March 05, 2010
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April Lidinsky -- More essays by April

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